Making a natural or
organic hair product that works is a green formulator’s greatest challenge. Fortunately,
there’s been further development of green surfactants since I first started
formulating over 20 years ago.
Ethoxylated ingredients can easily be replaced with safer
alternatives in formulas like saponified coconut oil and milder glucoside-based
surfactants and fatty acids. You may not see them readily used because they’re more
expensive and challenging to formulate.
your SCALP
Your scalp consists of
five layers. It’s extremely absorbent because it contains so many hair
follicles. There are 650 sweat glands, 1000 nerve endings and 20 blood vessels
alone on your head, so penetration is greater and it has the potential to get rapidly
absorbed straight into the bloodstream. It's one of the reasons that your hair is commonly used for
drug testing and toxin analysis like lead and mercury poisoning.
If you’re a frequent
hair washer (more than twice a week), the shampoos and conditioners you use should be high on your list of detox
priorities and you should scrutinise the labels of products you use. As well as the overall
hazard score on hair products, it’s important to check out and evaluate the
biodegradability of the ingredients. Keep in mind that whatever you’re washing
and cleaning your hair with, will end up in overburdened and polluted water
ways.
YOUR HAIR
Your hair is made up of
a protein called keratin. The outer layer is called the cuticle. Up close, it
has a scaly appearance like a fish. Its role is to protect the hair shaft. The
pH of the hair is low, around three. When it’s washed with harsh surfactants, the acid balance is destroyed because the pH is so much higher.
To restore the
appearance of the cuticle so that it has a lovely smooth, shiny appearance that
reflects light and makes the hair lie flat and look healthy, will require
conditioning agents. If you want to balance
your scalp and reset to a healthier hair regime, start with washing your hair
less frequently.
Ingredients to look
out for
Surfactants
A big misconception in
haircare is that foam is an indicator of cleanliness. Foaming isn’t healthy. In
fact, the less foam, the better. Most shampoos contain synthetic foaming agents
known as surfactants. These are compounds that reduce the surface tension of
liquids and help suspend oil and dirt, making them easier to remove or clean
from the hair, body or greasy surfaces.
ethoxylation
A common chemical
process used in creating surfactants is ethoxylation. It involves adding
ethylene oxide to an alcohol or phenol to create the surfactant. A concerning
by-product of this manufacturing process is contamination of 1,4-dioxane, a
known carcinogenic byproduct. The simplest way to identify if an ingredient has been ethoxylated is to look for ‘eth’ in the name.
Sulphates/Sulfates
Mainstream shampoos often
contain sulphates. These are commonly found in almost all foaming and lathering
products. Although these ingredients may originate from coconuts, the final product is far from its natural starting point.
Avoid:
sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), ammonium
laureth sulfate (ALES) and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS)
Alternative: Decyl,
capryl, coco and lauryl glucosides
ethanolamines
A chemical surfactant
found in many cosmetics and most mainstream shampoos. It’s added to make them
creamy and foaming. It’s a suspected carcinogen, and is thought to block the
absorption of the nutrient choline, which is vital to brain development and required
in higher doses in pregnant women. It can also cause hormone disruption and
skin allergies. DEA when added to other ingredients, can cause nitrosamine
contamination.
Avoid: Ethanolamine (ETA), diethanolamine (DEA), cocamide DEA, monoethanolamine (MEA), triethanolamine (TEA)
Alternative: Not a
necessary additive.
Conditioners & Coating Agents
To achieve the sort of
finish found in haircare advertisements, most haircare products contain
silicones or plastic derivatives. They’re designed to coat the hair shaft,
making it appear luxurious and healthy. While the result may look fabulous, they
prevent transpiration and penetration of nutrients. They build up in the hair
and the environment. Regardless of whether a label states the product is full
of proteins or vitamin E, your hair is essentially dead, so it isn’t going to
make a difference to the hair shaft.
Avoid: Silicones -
dimethicone, polymethylsiloxane
Alternative:
Isoamyl laurate, plukenetia volubilis seed oil, jojoba, argania spinosa argan kernal
oil, moringa seed oil, shea butter
Quaternary Ammonium
Compounds
Most commercial and a
few ‘natural’ haircare products contain quaternary ammonium compounds, aka
‘quats’. These are bromine or chlorine salts of ammonia that act as anti-static
agents, disinfectants and algaecides. Many natural haircare companies justify
their use because they’re made from rapeseed or turnip oil. Their role is to
defrizz the hair and make it feel softer by coating the hair and scalp. While
they may create a soft, sleek feeling, they can be hazardous compounds.
Avoid: Centrimonium
chloride, behentrimonium chloride and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Alternative: REFER conditioning agents above
Fragrances
A
fragrance is a complex blend of aromatic molecules with infinite mixtures and
possibilities. Fragrances are volatile substances that enter the air as gases.
They can affect your naso-respiratory tract, skin and eyes. Even in low
concentrations, the chemicals can be sensitisers, carcinogens, allergens,
endocrine disruptors, neurotoxins, irritants and environmental toxins. A large
percentage of fragranced products also contain phthalates, colourants and
solvents (unlisted on the label) and are added to the mix to make a product
last longer or stick to your skin.
Hair products are one of the worst offenders
– almost all shampoos, conditioners and styling products contain fragrance.
Avoid: Parfum,
fragrance
Alternative:
Essential oil blends
Preservatives
Water is the main
ingredient used in haircare. Preservation is important because products are vulnerable
to spoilage, especially in a bathroom environment where mould and bacteria are
rampant. Parabens are most commonly used because they’re cheap and stable, but
they have been identified as causing health related issues.
Avoid: The prefixes
ethyl-, methyl-, propyl-, isopropyl-, butyl- or isobutyl parabens, sodium odium
benzoate
Alternative: Sodium
levulinate, sodium anisate
CHECKLIST FOR HAIRCARE INGREDIENTS TO AVOID
- Ethanolamines
- Parabens
- Octinoxate
- Oxybenzone
- Cocamide DEA
- Eth compounds – sodium laureth sulfate since they may be contaminated with known endocrine disruptor 1,4-dioxane
- Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives - diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin
Excerpt taken from Truth in Beauty On sale now. How often do you wash your hair? Do you read the labels on your personal care products? Leave a comment to be in the running to win $150 worth of products of your choice.